Armando Castelli found his vocation working for Milanese tailor Vittore Gianni. Back in 1876, Gianni became an innovative couturier industry, clothing the likes of AC Milan, Juventus and the Milan Ballet. Their first cycling products arrived a little later, as the 20th century began, sported by five-time Giro champion Alfredo Binda - who some believe to be the foremost Italian sporting legend. As well as becoming the first ever cycling world champion (in 1927), an accomplishment he would secure twice more, Binda also won the Milan-San Remo Classic on two occasions. He is recognised as one of the forefathers of modern stage racing, combining the strength of a one-day Classics rider with an incredible climbing acumen. Arguably his greatest achievement occurred after he had hung up his own saddle, as Binda took on the implausible task of coaching both Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali.
At this time, Armando Castelli, the now owner of Vittore Gianni, was making cycling apparel for Bartali. But Coppi, a Gianni patron himself, also came to Castelli for velo vesture, thus dragging the combatant's bitter road rivalry into the tailor's studio. Coppi demanded an edge. Castelli obliged - dropping the ubiquitous woolen jersey for silk threads, thereby introducing the first ever skin suit. The rest, is history. Picture the famous image of Fausto Coppi sharing a water bottle with Gino Bartali, as they climb the Col d’Izoard - both wear Castelli cycling apparel.
By 1948, Armando Castelli had a son - Maurizio. Castelli junior was no mean cyclist himself. But he would abandon a promising career on the road, and take up his father's mantle, so continuing the legacy of Castelli sportswear. And in 1974, at the age of 26, Maurizio created the eponymous Castelli Sport, with it turning the sports clothing industry on its head. With specific emphasis on competitive cycling, Castelli would introduce an impressive roster of firsts - the first Lycra shorts used in racing and sold to the public, the first colored shorts, the first sublimation printed team wear, the first synthetic winter clothing, the first use of windproof membranes, the first hydrophilic fabric treatments, and the first anatomic chamois seatpad. Castelli ingenuity revolutionized cycling; this tangibly illustrated by the hoards of cyclists lining up outside the Milan factory to purchase the new Lycra short.
In time, Castelli would clothe all the greats - Bartali, Coppi, Anquetil, Van Looy, Moilenaers, Bahamontes, Baldini, Magni, Riviere, Merckx, and Hinault. Almost appropriately, in 1995, a pertinent coda to this Milan Grand Opera played out - Maurizio Castelli died on his bike, whilst tackling the Cipressa climb, the next-to-last hill on the Milano-San Remo course. Today, his, and his father's, legacy live on, racing with the Cervélo Test Team. An ongoing obsession with innovation keeps Maurizio’s vision alive - to be at the cutting edge of technology, performance and design. Perhaps it is entirely fitting that their iconic company insignia should come in the form of a scorpion - whose origins are rumoured to involve a mistress born under the sign of Scorpio.
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So, maybe the next time you reach for a fig roll from your rear jersey pocket, or climb into some modest bib shorts, one might briefly pay your respects to Castelli. Grazie Armando.
The Castelli Mauro Wool Jersey
The yarn reads thus: in 2005 Castelli staff, whilst cleaning out the company basement came across a sealed box marked 'financial documents'. The box was apparently filled with woolen jersey designs from the 1970's, among them the Mauro. This quintessential garment became a fundamental component of Castelli's heritage re-launch.
